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Three Days in Montreal
By Amy Selby

Montréal, the Double Decker City

In a beautiful mix of the old world charm of European villages and the modern angles of contemporary architecture, you’ll discover Montréal. The hub of the city is neatly nestled between a mountain, Mount Royal, and a river, St. Lawrence River, with eclectic neighborhoods and ample museums, shopping destinations and restaurants that are calling out to be explored. Montréal has a strong chiropractic community and is the site of the next Congress of the World Federation of Chiropractic in May 2009. In our three-day itinerary you’ll tour neighborhoods, such as Chinatown and Little Italy, numerous parks and the city’s most noted attractions.

Day One: From the Mountain ?to the River
There’s a lot to see in this city, and it’s best viewed from the top of Parc du Mont-Royal. At the summit you’ll be able to spot city landmarks and take in panoramic views. You can opt for a guided walking tour or you can take part in the many events scheduled at the park throughout the year. If you’re planning a visit during the winter months, pack your skis. Parc du Mont-Royal has an extensive network of cross-country skiing trails.

After your descent, make your way to Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal, the city’s most prominent art museum with several collections totaling 33,000 objects. The museum, which dates back to 1912, features European, Canadian, decorative and contemporary arts—admission to the main collection is free. The museum does attract traveling exhibitions, which may charge admission.

Montréal’s downtown, or centre-ville, has many cafés and restaurants that showcase international cuisine. For a splurge, try Joe Beef. The restaurant is intimate, with only 28 seats, and diners truly benefit from its location. Joe Beef saddles up to the Atwater market, so chefs routinely incorporate fresh finds from the market into the menu. The food is known to be simple and good—you’ll find a raw bar, grilled rib steak and spaghetti with chunks of succulent lobster. Other highlights of downtown’s dining scene are Le Taj, which offers a nightly Indian feast, and Rosalie, whose expansive terrace is a hip scene in the warmer months.

Day Two: Visit Old and New
There’s a reason Montréal has been dubbed the Double Decker City, and no, it has nothing to do with tall red buses. Below the downtown district is the Underground City, or la ville souterraine, a network of underground tunnels and walkways with shops, entertainment venues, restaurants and businesses. In this city under the city there are more than 30 kilometers of connecting areas with more than 120 access points from above. Underground you can connect to various metro stations, watch a movie, visit art galleries, take in a few museums, shop for souvenirs and grab a bite to eat. You’ll get to see Montréalers on their way to work or to the university—more than 500,000 people pass through the underground city every day to escape the heat, the cold or downtown traffic.

After a tour of the underground city, how about a breath of fresh air? Old Montréal, or Vieux-Montréal, is the city’s historic center. At one time, this area was a walled city; today you take an architectural tour of the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries and see where the city was founded in 1642. Starting in the heart of the old city at Place d’Armes you’ll see the Sieur de Maisonneuve, a monument to the founder of Montréal. From this bustling square, you can easily walk to the Old Sulpician Seminary—the oldest building in Montréal—the Notre-Dame Basilica with its impressive architecture and woodwork, the Bank of Montréal and Saint-Jacques Street—Montréal’s version of Wall Street. As you wind through the old city’s narrow streets, you’ll reach the Montréal Museum of Archaeology and History, next to the city’s birthplace, which is marked by an obelisk. The Old Port, which once was a landing point for fur traders, is nearby and the host of many outdoor activities. Further into the old city, you’ll reach Rue Saint-Paul, Montréal’s oldest street. You can marvel at pre-1850 buildings and kick up your heels at a sidewalk café. One of the most popular sites within Vieux-Montréal is the Place Jacques-Cartier. This area was originally a 19th century marketplace; today you’ll find a more modern fresh market and restaurants.

Vieux-Montréal is beautiful at night. The old city’s streetscapes are beautifully illuminated by gas lamps and architectural lighting. City Hall and the Notre Dame-de-Bon-Secours are must-sees at night.

If you have time before dinner, take a pit stop to the Lachine Canal. This old canal connects the Old Port with the Atwater Market and was renovated to incorporate recreational offerings. Both guided bike and boat tours are available to explore this area.

Vieux-Montréal presents a plethora of dining options. Modavie offers Mediterranean fare and a well-stocked wine bar. You’re likely to hear live jazz on most evenings and enjoy ample portions on the menu. The restaurant is noted for its lamb and Szechuan-style shark dishes. If you’re inspired by the European charm of the old city, why not pair it with a French restaurant? Aix Cuisine du Terroir comes highly recommended from many sources for its incorporation of regional influences and produce into its menu. The restaurant is located beneath Hotel Place d’Armes.

Day Three: Montréal on Two Wheels
Montréalers love their bikes. The city is continuously expanding its bike path system, which is currently over 200 miles. You’ll find taxis and special metro cars equipped with bike racks. As a visitor, you’ll find it quite easy to navigate the city on two wheels. Many of the parks, canals and attractions offer guided bike tours that are informative and just plain fun. Parc Jean-Drapeau, Lachine Canal and Mount Royal all have guided bike tours. You’ll also find bike rental vendors throughout downtown and various neighborhoods to tour the city on your own.

Pedal your way to one of Montréal’s oldest cultural communities, Chinatown. Just north of Vieux-Montréal, you’ll find oriental gates welcoming you to the neighborhood. The main thoroughfare is de la Gauchetiere, and around every corner you’ll find street merchants selling tasty treats, crafts, kimonos and other souvenir items. A trip into Chinatown is not complete without sampling the cuisine. Maison Kam Fung is a good stop for dim sum, Le Jardin Du Nord and Ming Yeng both offer Peking duck and other classic Chinese dishes.

If you have the itch to shop, one of the best places to explore is Little Italy. St. Laurent Boulevard is lined with Italian tailors, shoe and clothing stores. Faema is a coffee lovers dream. This store is known for its espresso machines and kitchen supplies. The store also stocks furniture and décor. Faema is located in the Jean-Talon Market, an open-air market with fresh vegetables, flowers, eggs and even live fowl. Near the market are cheese shops, bakeries, cafes and Italian trattorias. For a taste of the old country, try Tre Marie, which is known for its rustic approach and its ever-changing dinner menu.

Il Mulino is a family-run restaurant serving up fresh pasta (try the agnolotti—a crescent-shaped, stuffed pasta—and the gnocchi) and the antipasti—grilled mushrooms, stuffed eggplant and broiled scallops.

Overall, Montréal’s Little Italy boasts a carnival atmosphere—jovial store owners are interacting with pedestrians to charm them into their shops, Italian phrases hang in the air and you’ll always find a bocce ball game in progress at Dante Park. Cap off your trip to Montréal by viewing outdoor frescoes, La Maison d’Italie and the Difesa Church.

sidebar:
Montréal at Your Fingertips

©2006 Today's Chiropractic