Sideways and Backways


Plan your own wine adventure through the nation’s best wine regions.Compiled by Craig DekshenieksAll this talk about wine has probably made you thirsty. So how about a trip to wine country in pursuit of the labels that suit your palette? Here is a handy guide for you to plan your own version of the movie “Sideways.”

The Napa Valley in California is perhaps the most famous wine region in the United States, but there are several other areas that have much to offer, and each has its own character. We recommend doing it right. Get a group of friends or your favorite couple, hire a limousine and allow yourself an entire day to enjoy the experience. It is also a good idea to call ahead because many wineries offer tasting by appointment only.

Every area will have its share of wineries you’ve heard of, and we’re not suggesting you ignore them. However, this guide is comprised of some of the lesser-known wineries, each worth your attention. Swirl and savor!

Napa Valley, California
Some people say Napa isn’t what it used to be, that in the name of profit and big business, all the character has been sucked out of the place. Very few Napa wineries offer free tastings anymore, and commercialism has taken away some of the small-town atmosphere, but there are plenty of good wineries to be found. Here’s a crop of vineyards that should satisfy the wine connoisseur in you:

Abiouness Wines A growing trend in the industry is the number of women who have entered wine making. One such trailblazer is the owner and proprietor of Abiouness Wines. How many wineries have the owner actually pouring the samples? If you like Pinot, then you must try the 2003 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir. (707) 963-1546, abiounesswines.com.

Dutch Henry This is probably one of the best-kept secrets in Napa, because most people don’t go far enough north to discover this hidden gem. Known for their Cabernet Sauvignons, Dutch Henry takes pride in their limited production, opting for quality over quantity. (888) 224-5879, dutchhenry.com.

Peju It is difficult to find the Peju label at your local wine shop, even if you live in California. It is because they sell almost exclusively through the winery itself. Peju is known for their Zinfandels, but don’t forget to try the 2003 Cabernet Franc. (800) 446-7358, peju.com.

Sonoma County, California
Napa’s neighbor to the west is almost as famous, and has become as well known for cooking as it has for wine. Sonoma grows more grapes than Napa, and it’s where fine wine production began in California. While huge wineries like Benzinger and Kendall-Jackson dominate the brochures and local advertising, there are plenty of other good wineries to enjoy as well. Here are a few we recommend:

Chalk Hill The name is inspired by the chalk colored layer of volcanic ash underneath the topsoil. Ask about the 2002 Estate Bottle Chardonnay and the 2001 Estate Bottled Merlot. (800) 838-4306, chalkhill.com.

Foppiano Is the oldest continually owned family winery in Sonoma and is dedicated to keeping it that way. If you like Syrah, their 2000 Petite Reserve is one you shouldn’t miss. (707) 433-7272, foppiano.com.

Michel-Schlumberger Despite the advances in technology, this winery remains committed to the old-fashioned way of growing, harvesting, aging and bottling. The 1999 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is a testament to that commitment. And if you prefer white wine, we suggest you give the 2003 La Brume Chardonnay a try. (707) 433-7427, michelschlumberger.com.
Santa Barbara/Paso Robles,

California
This is the area just North of Santa Barbara where Miles and Jack took their wine adventure in “Sideways.” If you want to take the same path as Miles and Jack, there are plenty of websites that will provide a detailed itinerary for you. But if you want to blaze your own trail, here are a few places we think you’ll appreciate:

Foley Estates The estate is situated on a former thoroughbred stable, and they have refurbished the stables to house the winery. Foley is well known for its Rancho Santa Rosa Chardonnay, having received numerous awards and accolades along the way. For reds, try their 2003 Pinot Noir. (805) 737-6222, foleywines.com.

Palmina Their wines are based on Italian vintages, even though they use many non-Italian grapes to get there. And the result is a truly unique flavor in all of their wines. Palmina has several different varieties to suit any palette, but their signature wine is called Alisos, which is a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot grapes. The 2004 Alisos is one you need to try. (805) 735-2030, palminawines.com.

Turley This winery uses grapes from older, established vines, which are “dry farmed,” meaning they use no irrigation. They also bottle only a small supply from each of their various vineyards. Zinfandels are the wines of choice, and we recommend you ask for the Hayne, Moore Earthquake or Dusi vintage. (805) 434-1030.

Temecula, California
This is not an area where one would think good wineries could exist. But if you look a little bit closer, the region’s climate mirrors that of the Mediterranean, making it an excellent place to create Bordeaux style blends and Italian varieties. Temecula doesn’t have as many wineries as some of the other regions, but there are still enough to make the excursion worthwhile. Definitely give these a try:

Falkner Winery Usually wineries start with great winemakers and then bring in smart business people to make the venture profitable. Falkner did the opposite, starting with great business sense and then bringing in fine quality winemakers. The result is still some of the finest wines in Temecula. For something a little different, check out the 2000 and 2001 Amante, a spectacular Tuscan blend. And for you white fans, try the 2002 Viognier, a light and fruity wine that goes very well with chicken. (951) 676-8231, falknerwinery.com.

Miramonte Winery This winery has a unique mix of old and new in both the tasting room and the wine itself. The proprietor may be young, but he appreciates the passion and nuances that go into making tasty wine. So he keeps the production small, and the quality high, making it a true family-style winery. For a great Bordeaux blend, try the 2000 Opulente Reserve, and for a super Syrah, try the 2001 Grand Reserve. (951) 506-5500, miramontewinery.com.

Mount Palomar As the vineyard pioneer in Temecula, Mount Palomar is what the rest of the region is measured against. If you like white wine, then you are in for a treat, as the Rieslings and the Chardonnays are award winning. If you prefer reds, try the 2002 Cloudbreak “Meritage” or the 2002 Best of Vintage Syrah. And if you are looking for something beyond the traditional dinner wines, Mount Palomar offers both Port and Cream Sherry. (800) 854-5177, mountpalomar.com.

Willamette Valley, Oregon
There are actually four wine regions in Oregon, but the most prolific is Willamette Valley. This is an area that lies on almost the exact same latitude as some of the finest French wineries. The climate is cooler than California, and the average rainfall is higher, which makes it a great place for Pinot grapes. Most of the wineries have other varieties, but the area is best known for its Pinots. Here are some of places that will allow one to determine if the area lives up to its burgeoning reputation:

Domaine Drouhin In 1961, a French winemaker was visiting the United States, in search of the best place to grow Burgundy grapes. He decided that Oregon and not California was the perfect place, so he founded what has become the Domaine Drouhin Winery. The 2002 Laurene Pinot is a great example of the product its founder envisioned. They have a fine selection of Chardonnays as well. (503) 864-2700, domainedrouhin.com.

King Estate This winery is located in Eugene, which offers a great climate year round. The King Estate looks like an authentic French chateau, offering spectacular views of the mountains, and the feeling that one is truly in the country. Of course, the Pinot Noir is their signature wine, and we recommend the 2002 vintage. If you are up for something a little different, you might venture to try the 2004 Vin Glace which means “ice wine” and makes a great dessert wine. (800) 884-4441, kingestate.com.

Van Duzer This winery lies at the start of the Willamette Valley if traveling south from Portland. Due to the angle of the mountains and the prevailing winds, Van Duzer’s vineyards enjoy a unique climate that has cooler afternoons than most of the other wineries. This is why the 2003 Estate Pinot Gris and the 2002 Dijon Blocks Pinot Noir have gained acclaim. (503) 623-6420, vanduzer.com.